Carnarvon Gorge, QLD, Australia

A rugged, ancient and beautiful place.

Carnarvon Gorge National Park is roughly 800 km west-north-west from Brisbane, or 250 km north of Roma, on the road to Emerald, in central Queensland, Australia. Taking the turn off the highway includes a sealed road to the camping and accommodation area some 40 km in. Unless there has been substantial recent rains, the access road is fine for all vehicles. However, if planning well in advance, it is safer to be in a 4WD (or at least SUV – AWD) if possible.

Exploring Carnarvon Gorge is not for the faint hearted or the unfit. To see the best of what CG has to offer requires each person to hike significant distances, up and down, with agility and balance to transition many stepping stones across numerous shallow creeks, across various rocks and along some dry creek beds, up ladders and steep steps, and along good paths that require constant vigilance to prevent tripping or twisting an ankle or knee. Nothing super hard necessarily but an endurance event if you get ambitious and want to see most of the main sights noted below in one day, as we did. Be prepared, carry plenty of water and food, preferably first aid, and good hiking shoes that are comfortable and worn in.

We stayed three nights at CG in the lovely comfortable cabins shown below. They were well equipped with heating and cooling, comfortable bed, ensuite shower and toilet, with a small fridge and communal cooking facilities nearby.

Our very comfortable cabin. Camping is available nearby.

We chose to arrive fairly early day one (2pm check) to orientate ourselves so we managed to explore Mickey Creek and the Rock Pool that afternoon. The Rock Pool is the only official swimming facility in the park and it is very refreshing I am advised. Both these are close to the camp and gave us a quick taste of this beautiful place.

Day two was the big day when we chose to do the out and back hike from the Visitors Centre car park, to Big Bend and back. As per the map below, we explored each named feature of interest, in order being: the Moss Garden, Amphitheatre, Wards Canyon, Art Gallery, Cathedral Cave, Boowinda Gorge, and Big Bend. My GPS watch suggested we had walked around 18 km at that point. Supposedly there was 9.6 km home! That was a big day for us both (me 61, she 59), but we survived, just very weary and sore. We did have plenty to eat, with fruit and water (about 1.5 litres each, recommended was 2.0 and we would have appreciated the extra).

Map of key features to explore at Carnarvon Gorge.

On day three, this author set out early to climb Boolimba Bluff. A short walk compared to the previous day, but with a very tough 300m section of steps and ladders. Like an intense gym workout, this person had to stop on several occasions before making it to the top, when there was a leisurely walk to the lookout. Others were up earlier to watch the sun rise from that place – I imagine that was special. Returning was so much easier, yet fraught with some risk if you did not watch your footing while descending the many steps.

Overall, a wonderful visit, best seen by the early risers and good hikers.

Some key features noted above are shown below.

Moss Garden
Moss Garden too.
Adjacent to the Moss Garden. An example of the many sheer rock faces abounding in this rugged place.
The mighty Amphitheatre. My highlight. The entrance via this ladder shown here.
Stepping into the Amphitheatre ahead.
Amphitheatre. One view inside.
The Amphitheatre looking up. Under flood, it is like a washing machine in here, and no living creature would want to be inside for that.
The Art Gallery, on these sheer sandstone cliff faces.
This First Nations people’s art dated to about 3500 years ago. Many stories to be told!
Wards Canyon. An unassuming place but worth a visit, just off the track some.
Wards Canyon too. Home of the last giant tree ferns found in outback Queensland. The remaining giants are now only found on the coast in the north tropics.
Cathedral Cave. More indigenous art.
Entering Boowinda Gorge. Many bypass this because of the rock hopping required. Yes, watch the knees and ankles. But is reveals a very interesting and narrow gorge within, as following images show.
Boowinda Gorge looking out at the start. Yes, lots of rocks to traverse.
Boowinda Gorge narrowing. Imagine the torrent and pressure in big rains!
More Boowinda Gorge.
Boowinda Gorge opening up and on a track for the most adventurous and those with camping gear on their way to Battleship Spur.
We made it! To Big Bend. So good to dip the tired feet in the cool waters here. then lunch, before we turned for home. Just start very early, at sunrise preferably, if you want to do this round trip in one day! The cool morning air makes this first stage quite straightforward. But as we discovered, its a fair walk home!

And now some other images of the Gorge, and the wonderful creek. So many creek crossing, so you need to be agile, or else tolerate wet feet and shoes for the duration.

Tripping the light fantastic, across the stepping stones of the many creek crossing. Notice how clear the water is.
Typical gorge vegetation, towered over by the rising escarpment.
Then there was the grasses to traverse through.
The many woodlands, along the mostly very comfortable path.
So many lovely views.
So many sheer cliff faces. Thankfully we did not need to climb any of those!
Dry and wet creek beds. Vegetation large and small. And how scenic are rocks!
Gotta love the mighty ferns!
More woodlands.
Part of the fun of the hike is to successfully step across multiple creek crossings on provided stones. Yes, some loss of pride if you dip the feet, maybe worse if you are clumsy, but mostly fun, but challenging if you lack good balance.
Boolimba Bluff lookout toward our campsite to the south.
Boolimba Lookout, looking into the gorge and usual hiking trail.
Other Bollimba Bluff lookout, looking south east not long after sunrise. This National Park areas referred to as the roof of Queensland, directing waters south into the Murray Darling system into NSW, further west into South Australia and Lake Eyre, and north-east to the Pacific Ocean near Rockhampton.

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