First stop is Alotau, Milne Bay, PNG. Major conflict zone in WW II with the Japanese in 1942. A strategic victory there then by the Allies, which stymied the Japanese plans to take Port Moresby next, denying them a subsequent base to launch attacks on mainland Australia. Men from Australia as young as 18, many only required to provide citizen security on Australia territory only (but PNG was an Australian protectorate), otherwise known as the chocolates (would melt in the heat once applied), who achieved so much more than was ever expected, until the AIF returned from Europe and Tobruk at Curtin’s direction. Despite their limited training, making up for that with great heart, courage, sacrifice and endurance. Similarly on the Kokoda track too.

Of course, we learn so much about the futility of war in hindsight. How the Japanese demise was apparent from around 1942, yet their generals, to save face, and given their Emperor’s bloody mindedness, so many young men from both sides battled courageously, as they were ordered to, and as they sought to serve their respective countries and to maintain their own personal honour.  In the case of the battleground in PNG, as can be seen a little from the image below, this jungle warfare was brutal, horrendously difficult, the terrain so steep and slippery, the weather so energy sapping, hot and wet, and the constant presence of death by disease and bayonet front of mind.

Just as our visit today reminds me that we in Australia live in a different world to many of our northern neighbours, the peace, the friendliness, the relative calm of Alotau today masks such a brutal and sad past. So many families forever affected by war. Me knowing in my own work that even today, this transgenerational trauma manifests itself still in the behaviour, the personalities, the parenting and the attitudes of those who have come after. Those who have inherited the memories or been nurtured in the presence of the ghosts of the past.

Meanwhile our ship-wise special experiences continue. Such as Joey’s gorgeous and soaring vocals accompanied only by his piano. What a rendition of ‘Who wants to live forever’ (my request by Queen). What a lovely Kiwi couple of advanced years but sharp minds. A conversation so much more fruitful than watching some shoot ‘em up and monsters movie. Yes, I am getting older! A nice glass of wine each, shared. Tonight, more Joey joy, another vocalist too, and of course the food. We sail tonight at 7:30pm, a full sea day tomorrow Wednesday, and arriving in Cairns Thursday 3/5/18.

My final reflection for today, also apparent in both images here. The clash of cultures, are we still exploiting those who have less, less power, less wealth, less choice? Or are we collaborating and assisting them? Not sure how to reconcile or answer that other than be respectful, friendly and authentic when meeting any of these lovely people. Today they were genuine and friendly, and I thank them for that.