On my ‘do-nothing-day’ here in the warm climate of Broome, I thought I would post a brief note about our three week experience driving between Perth and Broome. You can choose to use this information as you wish, acknowledging that what suits some people, how people wish to travel, do, what they find interesting, and what they can afford, does vary greatly. These are just my reflections, and in some cases, opinions. These notes are also a bit freelance, so no critique of my prose please, but there will be some chronological order, of sorts.
Perth is a wonderful city with so much to do and see, all year round. However, these notes are not about lovely Perth. Nor are they about the sensational places south of Perth, that is another trip in its own right. We also chose to stick to the coast, so it is not about the Pilbara either, although little on that later.
Life in a 2-berth campervan and staying in caravan parks. Quite adequate and reasonably comfortable, although if one or both adults are 183cm in height or more, your bed can get cramped. Overall, caravan parks were good, although there is some variation between very good to average, in terms of amentities. The company though in these parks is usually quite fun, and generally, most people are asleep early. Prices in range of $45 to $55 per night for powered sites.
Roads were almost all very good, well sealed and quite smooth, with limited road works along the way. Unsealed roads to get to some of the tourist sites are a different matter and each needs to be assessed on its merits and capabilities of your vehicle. Our camper was definitely not off-road capable, and indeed, incurred some cabinet damage after a stretch of corrugations getting into Eighty Mile Beach. Know your limits, stay on the bitumen, or get a 4WD.
Cervantes. A short drive from Perth and near the interesting Pinnacles. We stopped here given we picked up our camper late morning in Perth, but with an earlier start, I would suggest travelling to Geraldton at least, day one, unless you have heaps of time (we did not). We had a glorious spot by the beach, the sunset was awesome too, over the Indian Ocean (although you can become complacent about sunsets as you go up the coast as they are almost all awesome, every night). Not much in Cervantes though, however there is fishing and make sure you buy some fresh lobster from the factory there, before 3pm, something we missed out on.
Geraldton. Only stopped there on an earlier cruise but a pretty funky, functional and attractive town. Beaches are nice, plenty of water sports and fishing. Large town so plenty of shops, cafes, etc. If you like history, or even modern art or architecture, make sure to check out the Sydney Memorial in town, with guided tours by volunteers very good. The Sydney sinking in WW II is both a sad and fascinating tale, including the location of the wreck many decades later.
Kalbarri. Awesome. The gorges, and the rugged coastline. And the river. Loved it. Make sure to stay a few days, and pack for hiking, and swimming. Only a little town though so limited services there.
In terms of mobile and internet services, these were pretty well available all the way to Broome, but you get the odd black spot between towns, but staying in touch and online usually not a big deal. We were also with Telstra so cannot comment on other service provider’s services.
Shark Bay. A bit of a diversion off the main highway. Includes Monkey Mia but best to stay at Denham some 22km away. If you are not so interested in dolphins at MM, or the other wilderness areas accessible via 4WD in this world heritage park, some may choose to bypass if time is tight. Each to their own, but it is pretty, and Denham was large enough to have essential services and facilities.
Carnarvon. Some say not much there yet I would disagree. Lots of fruit growing areas and fresh fruit, the space station is definitely worth a visit, we had a lovely meal one evening in one of the pubs, so food was good, and a large town with most shops and services. Our caravan park some 5km from town was also one of the better ones we stayed at. Also, there is the blowhole and Pt Quobba some 70km to the north. A must visit for the rugged ocean there, the blowhole when the tide is right, and just around the corner, a very safe and lovely snorkelling spot with lots of fish. I also understand the beach here accessible via 4WD going further north is also pretty special.
Coral Bay. Ningaloo Reef. Snorkelling from the beach. Day tours, diving, snorkelling, manta rays, whale sharks, cute little shops. A very small community but awesome. Like an oasis as you arrive from the adjacent desert. Stay a while here. The weather is also quite temperate all year round and less nasties in the water than further north.
Swimming. Always check with locals, as depending upon time of year, and how far north, there can be dangers, ranging from rips, sea lice, irikandji jelly fish, sharks, and eventually, salt water crocodiles.
Cape Range National Park. In the heart of the Ningaloo Reef. This is a must do, and stay here awhile. We stayed nearby at the Yardie Creek Homestead caravan park and that was great access to the nearby national park. Includes both hiking in some gorges and numerous awesome beaches, for swimming and snorkelling. Recommend hiking Charles Knife Gorge too on the Exmouth side, as like a little Grand Canyon, even without 4WD, you can drive to end of bitumen, park and hike a small distance, and appreciate the canyons there. Or hike the 16km like us and take it all in. Or better still, use a 4WD and save some hiking.
Exmouth. The town is modern with all the facilities but the tourist attractions are nearby, including the many day tours include whale shark and humpback whale watching, diving, snorkelling, etc. Nearest main town to Cape Range National Park. A bit off the main drag but this area was one of the highlights for us.
Karratha. Mining town hub near the coast and adjacent to the port at Dampier. Very modern, plenty of money apparent here, and a very good craft shop too, as my partner discovered. All other modern amenities. Very civilised, although a long way from Perth, and still some distance to Broome.
Eighty Mile Beach. Rough corrugated 8km drive in. Caravan park very welcoming. Lots of four wheel ATV vehicles about, as people use them for fishing and getting up and down the beach. The beach is huge, the tidal range large, so it can be a long walk to the water’s edge at times. We only stayed here a night as we were keen to get to Broome, but you could linger here for a while, if you liked to fish, or just relax in the shade or with a cool drink and friends. Not sure about the safety of swimming here and plenty of sharks I believe. In any case, a very beautiful, and as the name implies, a very long beach.
Broome. Gateway town. All services. Nice shops, galleries. Good resorts. International airport. Cable Beach. Great weather in dry season, but wet season a new ball game. Friendly, relaxed. Time to recharge before heading off on that Kimberley wilderness adventure.
Time allowed. Three weeks was ok, although four would have been better, and if I had known, I would have included the Karijini National Park east of Exmouth near Tom Price in the Pilbara. Everyone raves about this place, and although some of the attractions require a high level of fitness and agility to visit and/or hike to, apparently many of the scenic spots are a bit closer together, than in comparison to the Kimberley and Gibb River Road area. Next time perhaps.
When you arrive, I would suggest allocating some quiet time after all the driving, as we have done, especially if you are about to start another trip, as we did to the Kimberley.
Road hazards. Common sense and being alert usually means safe driving. Lots of feral goats along the southern part while more cattle in the northern sectors. Not so many kangaroos but a few emus here and there. Suggest early morning safer than late afternoon and most main roads have good visibility on the side, so set off earlier than later. Also less caravans to pass if you get away early.
Road trains. Not so many, and usually plenty of places to pass, given mainly long and straight roads in this area of WA. Probably more of these in the Pilbara and mining roads, than on the coast.
Overall. A great Australian road trip, given world class sites and tourist experiences along the way. Kalbarri and Ningaloo Reef areas my personal highlights.
























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